Back in The City
After three months away, I've returned to my dear home of Istanbul, which changes at a pace quicker than one can follow.
I’m so happy to be back in Istanbul after three months, a tumultuous delay in my life that resulted from a banal residence permit issue that many of your read about at the time. Now that I’m back in the city that made me a journalist, I’m more motivated to explore, discover and write than ever.
Normally, I avoid taxis whenever possible. This time, leaving from the airport with a significant amount of baggage at midnight I just decided to hop in one, agreeing on a decent price with the driver before we drove off. After the long stretch of nothingness between the new main airport and the center of Istanbul, I once again was harshly reminded of how how fast this city changes particularly when you are away for three months.
In Dolapdere, at the bottom of the hill that leads up to Kurtuluş, there was a giant, illuminated and ultimately gaudy three-story “Pilav Sarayı” (Rice Palace) restaurant that had opened while I was gone and that unfortunately gained its status as another eyesore on this urban fabric that has been stained beyond belief in recent years.
In my own neighborhood of Kurtuluş, businesses are always collapsing and popping up afresh, but this time I noticed more than usual. What is also compelling about The City is that in spite of the rapid changes, so many things remain as they were. A short trip to Yedikule, Samatya or Yeldeğirmeni reveals standing 150+ year-old wooden buildings that survived waves of widespread fires and demolition, some of which are even inhabited to this day. Countless Ottoman and Byzantine relics within the Old City cling to their existence, somehow managing to survive against unthinkable odds.
It’s both comforting and stressful being back in my adopted home city, but I love this place more than anywhere else, and the stories will continue to flow. Thanks to all my of my dear subscribers, especially those who have reached out with notes. You all mean the world to me and inspire me to write more even when I find it difficult to do so.




Hoş döndünüz. Şehir de sizi özlemiştir mutlaka.
Hoş geldiniz!