Archive - FLANÖR

Great Food, Great Stories: Culinary Backstreets Launches Istanbul Instagram Account

Many of you who follow my work know that I’ve been writing about Istanbul’s food culture for Culinary Backstreets for ten years now.

May 11 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

A Memorial Ceremony and an Attack

There was a memorial ceremony for iconic politician Sırrı Süreyya Önder on May 4 in Istanbul. Main opposition leader Özgür Özel was attacked while…

May 6 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

March 2025

All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #3: Beyoğlu'nun Arka Yakası

This compelling 1986 film stars the legendary Tarık Akan as a civil servant who suddenly finds himself in the middle of a debaucherous, precarious night…

Mar 4 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

February 2025

All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #2: Dönersen Islık Çal

This brave and touching 1992 film about the bond formed between a dwarf bartender and a trans sex worker is set in the backdrop of an eerie Beyoğlu at…

Feb 7 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

January 2025

Two classic Istanbul meyhanes in Yedikule and Beyoğlu: The tales of Safa and Seviç

These two storied establishments are living legends, functional torchbearers of Istanbul meyhane culture. Not many of their ilk remain in The City.

Jan 30 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #1: Muhsin Bey

For a new series on films prominently featuring Istanbul in different time periods, it seemed imperative that Yavuz Turgul & Şener Şen's masterpiece…

Jan 14 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

December 2024

The Soup is Always On: Istanbul's 24/7 Soup Shops

In Istanbul, soup can be every meal. No matter what hour of day or night, there are places across the city serving up dozens of delicious, comforting…

Dec 26, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

How Syrian refugees enriched Istanbul's culinary scene

After escaping civil war, the Syrian refugee community that settled in Istanbul brought along their culinary traditions, enhancing the diversity of The…

Dec 16, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

A Love Letter to Lahmacun

From Bakırköy to Ümraniye, I explored some of my favorite Istanbul lahmacun joints. Here's an ode to one of this region's most beloved oven-baked…

Dec 4, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

October 2024

A Year-and-a-Half After the Earthquake: Notes on Gaziantep

The southeastern city of Gaziantep has rebounded after the February 2023 earthquakes. A first-time visitor might not know the city was damaged, but the…

Oct 7, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

September 2024

How Sinop became the arts and culture capital of Turkey's Black Sea coast

As artists have moved back from the bigger cities to their hometown, Sinop has become a regional hub for creativity, and it is centered in an old…

Sep 10, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

August 2024

The büfe: A cornerstone of Istanbul culinary culture

Restaurants selling döner, pressed sandwiches, fresh-squeezed juice and other snacks have been crucial in feeding The City for decades.

Aug 8, 2024 •

Paul Benjamin Osterlund

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